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Tucci noted, in his broadcast, that he was shocked to see that a pat of butter was added to the dish, in seeming violation of the rules of Mediterranean cooking, and which contradicted what he had previously been told. “There is no secret” to spaghetti alla Nerano, a manager at Lo Scoglio told me, her smile and confident tone suggesting that there was one and that I was being challenged to find it. We also discussed frankly-I hadn’t dared bring up the subject with anyone else-whose version of the dish was best. Nearby, at the small bistro Bar Yeye, the owner, Gianluca Caputo, who also runs a charter-boat service, let me in on a secret as he repainted his father’s small fishing skiff: at most restaurants, instead of ordering the expensive “primo” course of the dish, which costs in the vicinity of twenty dollars, you can order a half portion and leave more room for something else. The renowned restaurant Maria Grazia, two hundred yards down the beach from Lo Scoglio, boasts of having invented the dish in the nineteen-fifties, and has framed old press stories hanging on the walls to bolster its claim. Its proper preparation demands greater attention to freshness and kitchen craftsmanship than to fancy ingredients. The dish exemplifies Italian cooking traditions here and elsewhere: take the simple riches of what grows nearby and make it as tasty as you can without a lot of fussiness. Tucci and his wife asked for a private master class from Chef Tommaso De Simone, of Lo Scoglio, and they saw their first mistake right away: they had been pan-frying thin slices of zucchini when it was supposed to be deep-fried.ĭuring my stay, I wandered from Lo Scoglio down to the beach, a distance of two football fields, and discovered that there are highly individualized versions of spaghetti alla Nerano to be enjoyed. They had had enough success to keep eating it weekly, but still wondered why they could never get it quite right. In the début episode, he explains that he became an aficionado of the local spaghetti with zucchini, which he and his wife Felicity Blunt had tried over and over again to replicate at home. Years before Tucci made his program, he had visited Lo Scoglio da Tommaso. (One restaurateur grumbled to me about the bounty that he had to pay to the boat operators to get clients.) Private yachts, along with more modest tourist vessels carrying day-trippers visiting spots on the Amalfi Coast, would arrive for lunch or dinner in the small bay, while a battalion of tender boats tried to haul in a catch of tourists for the various restaurants.
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While I was there, its tables were usually packed with Italians, often very fashionably dressed they made me feel rather dowdy in my baseball cap, droopy polo shirt, and dad jeans. Lo Scoglio, a hotel and restaurant, is a local landmark, with a commanding terrace built out into the bay. I deadpanned, “Tucci?” and the man, a Kansan, laughed and replied, “Yes.” At another lunch at Lo Scoglio, I overheard a group table order in the form of “whatever Tucci had.”
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Later, on the staircase up to my room, I received a friendly American-sounding hello from another visitor. They are the owners of the Bareburger restaurants in New Jersey, they said, and were celebrating Ani’s fiftieth birthday. When I arrived at Lo Scoglio, in May, I’d barely twisted my first forkful of the dish in question, spaghetti alla Nerano-spaghetti spiffed up with zucchini, cheese, and basil-when I caught the eye of Ani Ozgun and her husband, Arto, who had watched Tucci’s show, also.
#Aldente app series
Yet, when the actor Stanley Tucci visited Nerano, a romantic little village on the Sorrento Peninsula, at the beginning of the Amalfi Coast, for the first episode of his hit CNN eating series “Searching for Italy,” he raised a regional zucchini dish to A-list culinary prominence and lured a steady stream of Americans to a local establishment called Lo Scoglio da Tommaso. Its delicate flower, when available, can be used as a shell and deep-fried to hold cheese or perhaps small shrimp with herbs in a tasty fritter. It is usually a fried side dish or an ensemble player in other vegetable creations, such as ratatouille. Zucchini-a familiar, easy-to-grow, and virtually tasteless green summer squash-has never been a gastronomic superstar.